One day vacations: Port Townsend makes a dreamy weekend

Sally Zeiger Hanson / guest columnist

As a lifelong Puyallup resident, Sally Zeiger Hanson has been taking One Day Vacations here in the Puget Sound for years. To join the conversation about the fun that can be had close to home, contact her at sallyzeigerhanson@gmail.com or on her blog at on Destination: Port Townsend

Port Townsend earned the name “City of Dreams” because early founders dreamed that the city might one day become the largest harbor on the West Coast. While not the largest by a long shot, Port Townsend remains one of only three Victorian seaports on the National Register of Historic Places. Once an important seaport and link to European shipping routes, Port Townsend is the sort of town that oozes historical significance. The ornate Victorian homes are impressive and the waterfront is just weathered enough to look authentic.

We started our day in Port Townsend by having lunch at the Water Street Brewing and Ale House. We were seated in back in the family and bird section. Actually, the two robins that were inside were allowed to go anywhere they wanted without anyone checking to make sure they were at least 21. The dollar bills stuck to the ceiling and the magnificently carved mermaid over the bar kept us entertained while we waited for our food. At one point, we saw our waiter getting into his truck and our hopes of getting served were dashed until we figured out he was just moving to a different three-hour parking spot. I guess parking is an issue in all small towns. We loved our seafood stew, fiery chicken wings and spicy fries. I am told that the hotel upstairs has great balconies and rooms that are good for small families.

Knowing that the location on the waterfront is such an essential part of Port Townsend’s character, we enjoyed hiking up the stairs that are just a block off of the main shopping street. The views are spectacular and give you a great sense of why explorers would have chosen to put down roots at this particular site.

Because we visited on a Monday, several of the shops were closed but we still found some treasures: unique gift shops, a great paper store, and quirky coffee shops. One Port Townsend bakery that I’ve always heard people talk about is Bread and Roses. Unfortunately, they went out of business and their last day of operation was the day we were there. I am pretty sure that it wasn’t anything we said that caused their demise. I understand that their closure is somewhat temporary and I look forward to sampling their organic pastries on another day.

Downtown Port Townsend has 16 art galleries but the one that sticks in my mind is the Max Grover Gallery. The paintings are bright, primary colored images, many of which are children’s book illustrations. Max Grover himself was on site and we had a lively discussion about how much it matters whether the painting he does of specific places actually look like that place. When we were there, he was working on painting a city scene that he sketched on a recent trip to Mexico. We visited with his cats, Oreo and Cheddar, and debated with Max about how far natural talent can get an artist versus how far discipline can take an artist. Obviously, these topics have applications for all of us no matter in which arena we work.

While Port Townsend is less than 90 miles away and does make for a spectacular One Day Vacation, I need to tell you we had so much fun that our trip turned into a More-Than-One-Day-Vacation. We found a great place to stay about 12 miles out of town. The Inn at Port Hadlock is a lovely, funky little inn that sits on its own marina. The 47 rooms are unique and ours had its own balcony, a fireplace, two flat screen TVs and a separate sitting room area. This hotel has not yet gotten the hang of charging their guests for every service so we enjoyed the free Internet access and the free movie checkout at the front desk. What really sets this place apart is the three story art gallery in the hotel. They even have an artist-in-residence and the lobby and rooms are filled with original art. My 8-year-old son cracked himself up by skipping from gallery to gallery declaring, “Oooh, someone arted.”

Even though the “City of Dreams” was not destined to become the largest port as early settlers had hoped, Port Townsend could certainly be declared the dreamiest of weekend getaways. Or maybe, given all the art and its 61 historical homes, it could be called a Dream Come True. No matter what you call it, you will have a dreamy time when you visit.

Port Townsend Details

> Max Grover Gallery

820 Water St. (upstairs)

Port Townsend

360-385-3037

www.maxgrover.com

> Water Street Brewing

639 Water St.

Port Townsend

360-379-6438

www.waterstreetbrewing.com

For more travel information, go to www.ptguide.com.

If one day turns into two

> The Inn at Port Hadlock

Waterfront dining, day spa, The Art Mine Gallery, remodeled rooms.

310 Hadlock Bay Road

Port Hadlock, WA

360-385-7030

www.innatporthadlock.com

> Waterstreet Hotel (above the brewery)

635 Water Street

Port Townsend

360-385-5467

In N. D. Hill building above the Water Street Brewing Company. Built in 1889 and remodeled in 1990. For more information, go to www.waterstreethotelporttownsend.com.

Upcoming events

> Victorian Festival, May 2, 3, 4

Features a candlelight dinner and tour of historic homes, walking tours of Victorian homes and an antique auction. For more information, visit www.victorianfestival.org/2008/index.html.

> The Port Townsend Chamber Music Festival, June 22-29

Performances and workshops conducted by world-class musicians. For more information, go to www.centrum.org/classical/ch-performances.html.